Please find below my interpretation of the pattern for “An Opera Cap” (Miss Lambert, My Knitting Book, 1843, pp. 24-27):
Description
An opera cap was worn by a Victorian lady when she went to an event to keep her hair in place, hold in her body heat on a cool evening and maintain her modesty. The cap is knit flat with a picot border. Ribbons or braided wool are attached to hold the cap onto the lady’s head.
Completed Size:
Materials
Yarn: DK yarn in two colours. Sample made using Berocco Vintage DK
Needles: US6 / 4.0mm
Other Materials: Tapestry needle, ribbon or extra wool for braiding
Gauge (in pattern): 20 sts x 22 rows = 4” x 4” (10 cm x 10 cm)
Terminology
- MC – main colour (grey)
- CC – contrasting colour (purple)
- CO – cast on
- k – knit
- p – purl
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- yf – yarn forward
- ssk – slip, slip, knit
- ssp – slip, slip, purl
- k2tog – knit two together
- p2tog – purl two together
- BO – bind off
Directions
Using MC CO 80 sts
Border
Row 1: Using MC, p to end
Row 2: Using MC, k to end
Row 3: Using CC, p to end
Row 4: Using CC, *yf, k2tog, rep from * to end
Repeat Rows 1 and 2, two times
1st Division (CC)
Row 1: P to end
Row 2: Ssk, k to last two sts, k2tog (78 sts)
Row 3: K to end
Row 4: *Yf, k2tog, rep from * to end
2nd Division (MC)
Row 1: p2tog, p to last 2 sts, ssp (76 sts)
Row 2: ssk, ssk, k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2tog (72 sts)
Row 3: ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog (70 sts)
Row 4: *Yf, k2tog, rep from * to end
3rd Division (CC)
Row 1: p2tog, p to last 2 sts, ssp (68 sts)
Row 2: ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog (66 sts)
Row 3: k to end
Row 4: *Yf, k2tog, rep from * to end
4th(MC), 5th(CC), 6th(MC) and 7th(CC) Divisions
Repeat third division alternating MC and CC (50 sts)
8th Division (MC)
Row 1: P to end
Row 2: Ssk, k to last two sts, k2tog (48 sts)
Row 3: K to end
Row 4: *Yf, k2tog, rep from * to end
9th Division (CC)
Row 1: P to end
Row 2: Ssk, k to last two sts, k2tog (46 sts)
Row 3: K to end
Row 4: *Yf, k2tog, rep from * to end
Pick up 30 stitches on each side (108 sts)
Repeat the Border for the sides and back of the cap
Turn in the border and sew to create a picot edge
Attach ribbon to corners of the cap (or braided wool) to tie cap onto head
Add tassels to the ties (optional)