Please find below my interpretation of the pattern for “An Opera Cap” (Miss Lambert, My Knitting Book, 1843, pp. 24-27):

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Description
An opera cap was worn by a Victorian lady when she went to an event to keep her hair in place, hold in her body heat on a cool evening and maintain her modesty.  The cap is knit flat with a picot border.  Ribbons or braided wool are attached to hold the cap onto the lady’s head.

Completed Size:

Dimensions

 

Materials 

Yarn:  DK yarn in two colours.  Sample made using Berocco Vintage DK

Needles: US6 / 4.0mm

Other Materials:  Tapestry needle, ribbon or extra wool for braiding

Gauge (in pattern): 20 sts x 22 rows = 4” x 4” (10 cm x 10 cm)

Terminology

  • MC – main colour (grey)
  • CC – contrasting colour (purple)
  • CO – cast on
  • k – knit
  • p – purl
  • st(s) – stitch(es)
  • yf – yarn forward
  • ssk – slip, slip, knit
  • ssp – slip, slip, purl
  • k2tog – knit two together
  • p2tog – purl two together
  • BO – bind off

Directions

Using MC CO 80 sts

Border

Row 1:  Using MC, p to end

Row 2:  Using MC, k to end

Row 3:  Using CC, p to end

Row 4:  Using CC, *yf, k2tog, rep from * to end

Repeat Rows 1 and 2, two times

1st Division (CC)

Row 1:  P to end

Row 2:  Ssk, k to last two sts, k2tog (78 sts)

Row 3:  K to end

Row 4:  *Yf, k2tog, rep from * to end

2nd Division (MC)

Row 1:  p2tog, p to last 2 sts, ssp (76 sts)

Row 2:  ssk, ssk, k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2tog (72 sts)

Row 3:  ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog (70 sts)

Row 4:  *Yf, k2tog, rep from * to end

3rd Division (CC)

Row 1:  p2tog, p to last 2 sts, ssp (68 sts)

Row 2:  ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog (66 sts)

Row 3:  k to end

Row 4:  *Yf, k2tog, rep from * to end

4th(MC), 5th(CC), 6th(MC) and 7th(CC) Divisions

Repeat third division alternating MC and CC (50 sts)

8th Division (MC)

Row 1:  P to end

Row 2:  Ssk, k to last two sts, k2tog (48 sts)

Row 3:  K to end

Row 4:  *Yf, k2tog, rep from * to end

9th Division (CC)

Row 1:  P to end

Row 2:  Ssk, k to last two sts, k2tog (46 sts)

Row 3:  K to end

Row 4:  *Yf, k2tog, rep from * to end

 

Pick up 30 stitches on each side (108 sts)

Repeat the Border for the sides and back of the cap

Turn in the border and sew to create a picot edge

Attach ribbon to corners of the cap (or braided wool) to tie cap onto head

Add tassels to the ties (optional)

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